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Calvin Klein

Obsession

1985OrientalEDPUnited States

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Editorial notes

  1. 01

    A spicy ambery oriental Klein conceived as 'something direct, sensuous and provocative' rather than an old-fashioned floral.

  2. 02

    Bloomingdale's reportedly sold $7,000 of Obsession on its launch day in 1985, an unprecedented figure for an American prestige launch at the time.

  3. 03

    Richard Avedon directed the sexually charged TV spots starring Josie Borain, co-written by Doon Arbus, that defined the brand's controversial 1980s aesthetic.

  4. 04

    Composed by Jean Guichard in 1985 around mandarin and peach over a spices-jasmine heart with an amber-vanilla-incense-civet base.

Dossier

Edition · 000

Status · Active.

A spicy ambery oriental.

Composed by
Jean Guichard
Founder
Calvin Klein
Country
United States

The pyramid

Top
mandarinbergamotgreen notespeach
Heart
spicescorianderjasmineorange blossomrose
Base
ambervanillaincensemuskcivetoakmoss

The brief

Klein wanted 'something direct, sensuous and provocative' rather than an old-fashioned floral.

NameKlein's then-marketing chief Robert R. Taylor named it under the tagline 'Between love and madness lies Obsession.'

The flacon

Curved 'pebble' flacon of frosted amber glass that fits the contour of a hand.

Footnotes

  • Bloomingdale's reportedly sold $7,000 of Obsession on its launch day in 1985, an unprecedented figure for an American prestige launch at the time.
  • Richard Avedon directed the sexually charged Obsession TV spots starring Josie Borain, which Doon Arbus co-wrote.

The Curator's Note

Calvin Klein sold sex; the bottle was an alibi.

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