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Robert Piguet

Bandit

1944ChypreEDPFrance

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Editorial notes

  1. 01

    A bitter-green leather chypre that opened the door for masculine-leaning compositions worn by women, on an unprecedented overdose of isobutyl quinoline and galbanum.

  2. 02

    Germaine Cellier composed it for a Piguet runway show where the models, dressed in revolver belts and stockings, were doused in the unfinished blend backstage.

  3. 03

    Cellier was one of the very few prominent female perfumers of her era. She also composed Fracas four years later, and Robert Piguet Visa.

  4. 04

    Composed by Germaine Cellier in 1944 around galbanum, jasmine, leather and oakmoss. The name was Piguet's deliberate provocation, matched to the formula.

Dossier

Edition · 000

Status · Active. Heritage formula.

A leather chypre with galbanum.

Composed by
Germaine Cellier
Founder
Robert Piguet
Country
France

The pyramid

Top
artemisianeroligardeniagalbanumbergamot
Heart
jasminerosecarnationtuberoseylang-ylang
Base
leathervetiveroakmosspatchoulicivetlabdanum

The brief

Germaine Cellier composed it for a Piguet runway show where the models, dressed in revolver-belt and stocking outfits, were doused in the unfinished blend backstage.

Name'Bandit' — Piguet wanted a deliberately provocative, transgressive name to match the fragrance's bitter-green-leather character.

Why it mattered

  • Cellier's heavy-handed overdose of isobutyl quinoline (the leather-tar molecule) and galbanum redefined feminine perfumery's range, opening the door for masculine-leaning compositions worn by women.

Footnotes

  • Germaine Cellier was one of the few prominent female perfumers of her era; she also composed Fracas (1948) and Robert Piguet Visa.

The Curator's Note

The least apologetic perfume of the wartime years, and arguably of any year.

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