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Chanel

Allure

1996FloralEDPFrance

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Editorial notes

  1. 01

    A transparent fruity floral conceived as the antithesis of the deliberately heavy 1980s Coco, leaning into the mid-1990s minimalist aesthetic.

  2. 02

    Polge defined the title as 'the indefinable quality that captivates without revealing why', a manifesto stripped of the era's gilded oriental excess.

  3. 03

    Presented in the cleanest rectangular flacon Chanel had ever produced for a feminine, a deliberate visual reset of the maison's bottle codes.

  4. 04

    Composed by Jacques Polge in 1996 around mandarin and passion fruit over a may rose-jasmine-magnolia heart with sandalwood-vanilla-amber base.

Dossier

Edition · 000

Status · Active.

A transparent fruity floral.

Composed by
Jacques Polge
Founder
Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel
Country
France

The pyramid

Top
mandarinbergamotpeachpassion fruit
Heart
may rosejasminemagnoliahoneysucklewater lily
Base
sandalwoodvanillaambervetiver

The brief

Built as a transparent, unfussy modern feminine after the deliberately heavy 1980s Coco, leaning into the mid-1990s 'minimalist' aesthetic.

Name'Allure' — defined by Polge as 'the indefinable quality that captivates without revealing why'.

The flacon

Clean rectangular clear flacon with a square cap, the most stripped-down Chanel feminine flacon at launch.

The Curator's Note

Chanel's deliberate apology for the 1980s, packaged as a luxury.

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